Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Cycle in Japan - part 2



Yumi's transformation to a bear is nearly complete...

We braved cycling 25km across Sapporo city centre to see Asako at her family home.  Our tummies were filled with good food and our bags with yummy chocolates.  As you can see, Asako's grandmother was quite smitten with Thomas.

The river to Lake Shikotsuko was paved in gold



Everything in this small town was named Yamazaki including this bridge, a school,  the train station and the bus stop.

Filling up on onigiris at "Seicomart" our favourite convenient store is a morning ritual. 2 onigiris each and a coffee (for Yumi) or a strawberry flavoured milk (for Thomas) will keep s going for at least 30 kms.  Asako broke our hearts when she said they are only in Hokkaido.

Our second ferry ride.  This time a short ride from Hakodate (Hokkaido) to Aomori (Honshu). Typhoon is coming towards us so we decided to get to Honshu as quick as possible. We camped at the port that night.

GOODBYE HOKKAIDO!
HELLO HONSHU!

The ASPAM building in Aomori.

Why so sad, Yumi?  Because we are going 12% up, not down. It was hot and the road was steep and long. 

Today was by far our hardest day.  A lot more pushing than riding.

So happy to see finally the sign for Kasamatsu pass.  What?!  Now we have to watch out for bears (that's for those who can't read the sign on the left hand side)! They couldn't catch up with us on the way down though: we rode 16km in less than 25 minutes!

A beautiful 14km ride along the Oirase Mountain stream. Both of us could not wait to pitch the tent and chill after another long day on the bicycles.

Thomas posing for a photo, Japanese style.


After our 2nd exhausting day of hill climbs and with rain approaching, we thought we had hit the jackpot when we found this bus shelter.  We got permission from a local to spend the night in it. It was "royal" standard for us: benches, cushions, no need to pitch the tent, big and wide enough for us to spread out our stuff.  While Yumi went to take a sink "bath" at the nearby petrol station, one of our neighbours brought Thomas onigiri and pickles.

On her way to the petrol station, Yumi made friends with a woman walking with her grandson.  Atsuko was horrified that we were going to sleep in a bus shelter and bathe at the petrol station and very kindly invited us to stay in her minshuku (a family run B&B) for FREE!  She invited her best friend Keiko to join us for a big feast.  Keiko then offered us her beautiful "winter" home in Morioka for the next 2 days.  We can't thank them enough for their generosity and kindness. Morioka was a perfect opportunity to rest, the first time since Sapporo... 700kms ago.

A local festival. We have no idea what it was for. We were just there when we saw these people pushing the big thing. It reminded us of our day near the lake Towada where we pushed our bicycles up 12% slopes. 

Gates of Chuson temple in Hiraizumi. We decided to visit the temples the following morning before our daily ride. Still we cycled 90kms that day.

We rode through the devastation caused by the March tsunami near Ichinomaki just North of Sendai, Miyagi prefecture.  It looked like a war zone.

Despite the damage, the spirit of the people remains strong.  


Rain, hills, typhoons, blistering heat, 2600km in the legs yet... Thomas is having "the tan of his life" :)

 "Sweet home Sasagawa" such a small village it's not even on the map! Taka (holding the baby on this picture) met us at the campsite on the beach and -having cycled from Alaska to Las Vegas, Mexico to Tierra del Fuego and across Cambodia- invited us at a party he was organising that night. As usual, we went on a eating mission and ate amazing food. Taka apart from being a great host and guitar player is also a great cook! 


 We hate tunnels, especially the really big dark ones with no hard shoulder or pavement to walk on however, we enjoyed the bicycle only tunnels on this flat cycling path along the edge of the Japan Sea.


Pausing in front of the Nageiwa rock. The legend has it that once an ogre and Okuninushi had a strength contest right there. The ogre threw the rock you see in the background and Okuninushi threw his much further breaking in two the ogre's rock in the process which resulted in the ogre killing himself in the sea. Don't play games with Okuninushi (whoever that is) if you are a sore loooser. Swimming in the sea was fun and relaxing though. 

 The typical evening routine: a) open a beer after a long and dehydrating day and b) check where we are going tomorrow.


Met a bus driver cyclist team at an "ashiyu": a sauna for your legs. They passed us on the hills, showing off with their 7kg bicycles, but none of them could lift Thomas's 40kg bicycle. They told us our route that day would be hard. We had 2200km of training behind us, but man, that was a tough day.


Not sure where that was but it was nice.

Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Cycle in Japan - part 1

After much deliberation about how to get to Cape Soya, we decided on the following route: 
cycle 145km from Tokyo to Oarai 17th and 18th August
take a 19 hr ferry ride from Oarai to Tomakomai 18th to 19th August
train from Tomakomai to Wakkanai via Sapporo 19th August
cycle 40km to Cape Soya 20th August

Kilometer 0!  Jewlz will join us for the first 2 weeks of our trip.  Tokyo to Sapporo.

 Energy/directions stop at a petrol station. It was 38 degrees and the attendants gave us some refreshments. Japanese people are very welcoming and generous.  During our first 2 weeks, we have been given tomatoes, corn, watermelon, dried squid, hairy crab, dried clam, deer anteler keychains, flags, tuna cans, a bottle of Polish vodka, mini limes, giant onigiris (rice wrapped in a seaweed), several cans of coffee, a de-greasing spray...

In front of the Sun Flower Sapporo which took us from Oarai to Tomakomai in a mere 19h.

Corsican pride

Jewlz enjoying a cold one in the "economy" room on the ferry to Tomakomai, Hokkaido.  A luxurious boat ride complete with a public bath overlooking the ocean.

After 170km cycling, a 20h ferry ride and a 7h train ride we finally arrive at Wakkanai, the Northernmost city in Japan.   11pm arrival so we slept in the train station.  Another 40km to go and we'll reach Cape Soya, our official start point!

Last check on the Road to Cape Soya.  Mapple Touring book is like our bible.

Somewhere just short of Cape Soya

Jewlz, Yumi and Thomas, standing proud at the northernmost point of Japan: Cape Soya

The endless road 238. Are we there yet?

 Eastern coast line

 Still smiling. It's only the beginning.

 Meet the locals at a small restaurant on the East coast

Our friendly neighbours 

After a long day's ride, even a bus stop shelter feels like paradise.

The observatory at Nichi no desaki campsite 

 Yumi and her neighbour Totoro 

We should have gone for a tamden bikes!

 Can we stay in your farm? it's cold outside, it's raining...and it's lunchtime!

 Entering bear territory. The one riding the pink bicycle was the scariest!

One of our numerous stops along the way. This was near Akanko in the mountains. "Energy" was much needed. 

When we said we set up camp in the disabled toilets of a "michi-no-eki" (a rest area), we were not kidding!

No comment... 

 26th August. Top of the pass. 13km of ascent in pouring rain and strong winds. Thomas swapped his Salomon (ex-) goretex trail shoes for Adda sandals. It worked!

A fantastic meal.  Pasta bolognese.  Free pizza from our neighbour. Polish vodka mixed with apple juice and mini limes. Great company. Beautiful views.  What more can you ask for?  


 That's what you see when you wake up at 5am

 Same place, 1h later

We had to stop to get Yumi's namesake melon.  Super yummy!

Bento box, a filling meal 

 The roads are fantastic and the drivers are very considerate.

Everything is "cute" in Japan, even the plastic bits that hold the road works security railings.

View from our campsite near Ashibetsu  

 Spiritual stop

 Ohhhh a bridge

Sapporo is getting closer!

 The freedom of having no panniers.

We arrived at Kenichi's place in eastern Sapporo on the afternoon of 29th August having cycled almost 1000km (974.33km) since leaving Tokyo.  We celebrated with a delicious homemade feast.  A big thank you to the Ikeda family for welcoming us into their home.